Paris Fashion Week saw the big industry names take to the runway. From Virgil Abloh's final collection to fresh eyes from Matthew M. Williams' second show at Givenchy, BeautyMatter presents the must-see looks.
Off-White:
The final collection overseen by Virgil Abloh before his devastating passing in late November last year, this season's Off-White show was a pointer to what was to come for the brand, going forward with Abloh’s wish to turn the brand “more adult.” Split into two sections—ready-to-wear and haute couture—the collection housed 84 looks, each with individually inspiring beauty looks. In classic Off-White style, labels were in abundance, this time with “FACE” script placed on the upper cheekbones of models, in the stand-out Off-White font. The labels popped up on random models across the collection in white, black, and silver.
Another common look through the show was perfectly placed bobs with full bangs. As a model carried a flag with the well-known Abloh-ism “Question Everything,” the collection took a shift, with garments changing to striking gold color complemented by fresh glowy faces, once again decorated with face labels. As the haute couture section of the show began, nails grew longer and became more exciting, with model Joan Smalls’ fresh manicure reading “BEAT,” again, in traditional Off-White fashion. Female models including Kendall Jenner had the word “BABE” adhered to their upper cheekbones, this time in a more playful and free-flowing font. Naomi Campbell, alongside several other models, showcased sleek, flat-ironed extensions falling far below the waist. High-angled winged eyeshadow was also a prominent feature for the collection, with bright yellows and pearlescent silvers, alongside fire-like red patterns flicking away from the eye.
The future path for the brand is unclear, with FW22 having no external director. Off-White remains a creative homage to Abloh’s mind until further notice.
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Balenciaga:
As a result of fleeing from war at the age of ten, Balenciaga designer Demna (who has officially dropped his last name Gvasalia, for professional output) has a close connection with the traumas of war, leading him to address the current conflict in Ukraine with a heavy heart, admitting at one point he felt it was his responsibility to cancel the Balenciaga FW22 show out of respect. However, the show went on, with the designer ensuring every chair was laid in Ukrainian colors and with a printed note spreading the message that in the end, love must win.
As the show began, models could be seen traipsing through an artificial blizzard, a message from Demna that as a result of global warming, we could one day be forced to enjoy snow only as a virtual or artificial experience. The first model's bleach-blonde hair resembled icicles, scraped back in a gelled look, allowing snowflakes to sit on the edges. The weather effect was strong through many further hair looks, with models' wet-looking hair brushed either backwards or down across the face, in a typical stuck-in-a-blizzard style. Glasses also had a prominent place in the collection, mostly oversized, shielding the eyes from the snowfall. A model with cascading pigtail braids could be seen with chunks of snow sitting in between the crevices of the plaits, as further models with backcombed, frazzled hair followed shortly behind.
Makeup was light, neutral, and rosy, with cheeks a soft blushed red and pink, giving a clear "caught in the cold" vibe throughout the collection. A notable makeup point was the subtle overlining of lips, creating a very natural look, only visible when the snow calmed. Nails were also kept fresh, with models sporting either clear or soft pink polishes. The show ended with two contrasting models, one completely bald and the other with free-flowing curled hair, once again collecting snowflakes.
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Givenchy:
FW22 saw Matthew M. Williams’ second show for Givenchy take place in Paris’ La Défense district. The collection as a whole was an ode to current culture and streetwear, straying away from the usual looks presented at the fashion house. The collection began with the first model entering the runway with two gemstones propped above the eyebrows, creating a futuristic feel to the collection from the get-go. The gems continued to appear as the next bout of models took to the stage, this time placed on either cheek, looking almost robot-like, as if faces had been bolted together. Hair also followed a theme of multiple models sporting half a head of braids with the other half slicked back, a halo braid at the front. Models with longer hair also followed the halo braid trend, with long metallic beads woven into the side of the head. The screw-looking gems carried on, with one model's eyebrows bleached, making the facial stickers stand out boldly.
An abundance of models throughout the collection could be seen wearing balaclavas, faces entirely covered in some cases. Williams touched on this, expressing: “With Covid, people have been wearing masks, so I’ve been exploring these balaclavas and gloves for that reason. It’s almost a new archetype people are using in their daily lives.” Hats were also used alongside the face coverings, leaving a heavy emphasis on the eyes and eyebrows of the models. Across the collection, models' eyebrows were straight-lined with a minimal arch and hairs brushed upwards. Makeup was natural, a common theme across this season's collections, with subtle coral cheeks, pink matte lips, and a shiny silver inner corner of the eye.
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Valentino:
Pierpaolo Piccioli didn’t hold back when it came to the color pink this season. From the runway to the garments, every aspect of the show was either a bright fuschia flamingo pink, or a solid bold black. No other colors were to be seen. Within a collection of 81 pieces, over half were head-to-toe pink, including makeup and accessories. As the first handful of models took to the fluorescent runway, daring eye looks were showcased, with thick pink graphic eyeliner covering the entire eyelid, undereye, and brow bone, almost Egyptian-like in style. Hair was pulled back off the face, gelled into wave shapes in some cases, closely attached to the head in a ’20s style. The men on the runway could be seen with soft, glowy skin, neat hair, and minimal makeup, if any.
As the collection continued, eyeliner wings began to rise higher up the face, creating a devilish point as they met the end of several models' eyebrows. The mid-half of the collection then changed to black, with the only pink in sight being the runway. Makeup became progressively more minimal and clean, as the show took a more sophisticated stance. Short cropped hairstyles, gelled down neatly, as well as natural mini afros were sported by several models, both men and women alike. The collection turned pink again for the ending, finishing with the model who was arguably the standout. Her white blonde hair was gathered in a tight sleek ponytail, with bleached eyebrows, emphasizing the pink bold eyeliner, her lips a plump pearlescent coral shade.
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Chanel:
At the Grand Palais Éphémère, Virginie Viard presented a classic tweed collection, filled with color and playful beauty looks. From swept-across-the-face bangs, clipped back with delicate fascinators, to short free-flowing bobs, the collection had several nudges to ’60s beauty looks. Poodle-esque large curls with short bangs were seen on one model, creating the perfect bounce and adding to the energy of the collection. Regardless of style, every model's hair shined, reflecting off the lights that beamed onto the runway. Many a model could be seen with long, fused-together eyelashes, resembling the doe-eyed Twiggy look, again prominent in the ’60s era. Viard commented on the collection, stating, “I was thinking about England in the 1960s, and very colorful record covers.”
The age range of the casting was diverse, with some older models sporting well-kept gray hair, either flat-ironed or choppy and short in style. Makeup kept the models looking youthful and lively, minimal, with naturally thin eyebrows, soft rose-flushed cheeks and smooth baby-pink lips. Pastel colors including pink, yellow, purple, and green were heavily incorporated into the garments, complementing the subtle-toned makeup and allowing models' eyes to stand out from afar. With the nostalgic feel heavily present throughout this season's runway, it will be interesting to see what decade Chanel takes on next.
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